Day 18

We wake up after a little more than 5 hours sleep and here we are, already over France and ready to land …. This return flight wasn’t a problem at all.

Just few hours at Paris Airport and we’ll be on our way to Edinburgh. What a marvellous holiday ! Certainly something that we won’t forget for a long long time.

The End.

Ps: Thanks for following us in this adventure, please feel free to contact us if you want to visit Cuba.

Day 17

Last day in Cuba, it's time to priorities the last few things that we still have to see. Today we decided to have a wee look around Plaza de Armas. An interesting route on Monday morning; with less than the average number of tourists. We then change area and we visit a small museum just off the Capitolio dedicated to a local religion; Santeria. As usual dedicate a museum to a religion is not easy, in this case there is a representation of the 29 Santeria's Gods. In itself nothing more than 29 brown statues but the thing that really cracked the visit was the guide; a lady in her 60s that also has been practicing Santeria for a long period of time. This religion is a mix between Christianity and African religion, for this reason each Santeria's god matches with one or more Christian’s saint.

A very interesting visit that I recommend to anyone interested in spirituality and religions.

We has just time for the very last minute shopping and its time to go back to our accommodation. We both deserve some rest before begin our return trip, remembering the arrival flight we need to be in perfect shape. In fact we decide to have a shower and some food before going to the airport. At the casa particular there are two new comers; Australians just arrived from a long flight. It was enjoyable to exchange some thought with them giving some tips about what to visit and what to do. The taxi arrives and it’s time for us to go we say goodbye to everyone and board the “fancy” white Lada. The trip to the airport is surreal, is a sort of summary of our holiday: we drive though the typical Cuban smoky traffic we also see several urban farmers, and the sound track is a mix of Cuban artists from the radio : Ricardo Arjona, Silvio Rodriguez and Mana’ (Mexican). Once arrived at the airport we are back to reality, a never ending check-in queue. The Jose’ Marti’ is basic but very coloured, with flags of every countries attached to the ceiling of the only Gate. The duty free on the other hand and everything else is very similar to Havana centre but with higher prices. We get rid of our last Pesos Convertibles buying some food and souvenirs. The boarding procedure takes less than planned and in a question of minutes we take off. This time the flight is going to be two hours shorter than on the way to – Great !

Day 16

We are, once again, travelling alone with nor group neither guide. This was the first time that we went somewhere with an organised tour and I have to admit that for Cuba is the best choice. Everything is so much easier; there is no risk of getting lost in the Cuban motorway that have no signs at all. There is also to say that a local guide will give you much more information than any guide book available. There is also to say that a tour is very much peace of mind, no need to stress to look for an accommodation or a restaurant, in this way you have more time to enjoy your time , relax and talk with the people.

So now that we are on our own it's back to the old habit of selecting think to see and do. Today we decide to visit the Capitolio (Capital Building) the rum factory (Havana Club). We’ll also be spending some time looking for the last souvenirs and artworks for our flat. In the second part of the day we tried to visit the synagogue, but unfortunately it was closed. The latter is in the Vedado area of the city, and interesting part that is attracting more and more tourists. Once there we had an ice-cream at the very well known Coppelia, the finest helado in town. Just across the road there is this music store so we thought to have a look in and we came out with 4 CDs and a DVD.

The cinema is not that far away so we start to queue for our second and last film of the festival. This time it is called "Suspiros de Corazon" and Argentinean film. A completely different type of film, comparing to the previous one, more a comedy than anything else. We went one with a smile on our lips like everyone else in the theatre. Time to go back to Old Town – we’re going to have dinner in Havana Vieja.

Day 15/3

We are lucky enough to be here just when the Latin American Film Festival is taking place. So what better experience than try to go to a Cuban cinema? The selection of the film is not easy as the programme prints out only the title director and year without mentioning any additional information. In the end to select we spoke with a lady at the entrance of the cinema Pyett and we went for two films one Mexican and the other Argentinean. The cinema in Cuba is very cheap just 2 Cuban pesos for the local so we are sure that the cinema will be packed with local also considering that it's the weekend.

Just after saying goodbye to our travel mates for the last two weeks we head to the first film.

There are a lot of people in line in front of the doors so we join in. As usually happen here the chap in front of us start talking to us and we enjoy a long conversation about the agrarian reform and situation of the Cuban farmers. It was very interesting to talk to someone completely random in the street; it also made the queuing much more bearable. Once inside we came across a huge cinema with pretty old seats, the air conditioning helped to keep the temperature low. People were looking for a seat and chatting one with the other. The noise level is high but in a positive way! Everyone is eating some peanuts or pop corns that are available from old ladies outside the theatre.

The film starts straight with no advertisement and very sharp. The title of today's film is: La misma luna (The same moon) - I'll post a review of the film later on.

Day 15/2

We arrive in our accommodation after enjoying our first taxi ride. The problem seem to be that taxi driver do not have change, not even the smallest so we have to wait 5min for him to find someone with some change. The "casa particular" is just in the city centre, 2min off Calle Obispo - the commercial heart of Havana. From a steep stair we access the main area of the house. The property develops for a further floor upstairs, where our room is and on top of it there is also a spacious terrace roof. The room is more that OK and there is a lot of space for guests. Apparently this place if fairly known as there is number of tourists from different country already in. After a short rest it's time to continue our exploration around Havana.

Day 15

It time to leave for the group, we have to move to a casa particular for our two additional days in Havana. After a nice social breakfast we set off to start picking up on sights of the city that we haven't visited yet. Havana is very different from the other city that we've been to. People here in most areas are ignoring you, maybe the last sentence need more explanation; they ignore you means that they do not try to sell you something. This is not true near the very touristic places; Capitolio, Museo de la Revoluciòn etc. In general here you see more Cuban caring for their business and don't caring about us.

The capital is great when you are tired of the monotony of things in the other parts of the country. Here food, music and things to do are varied and interesting.

Day 14

After another natural/organic breakfast is time to say goodbye. As usual we try to leave something to the family not only a tip but also some gifts, they thank us very much.

Before going back to Havana we have our last planned visit today. We are going to meet Juanito a farmer farming steep fields in a hilly area. Juanito, thanks to various state run projects, is enjoying a better life than his ancestors. He in fact uses a solar system that runs his television and washing machine. Additionally his fridge run using kerosene as you've probably realised his home doesn't have electricity or running water. Juanito is another happy farmer living with his extensive family on this hill. Our group poses a lot of question to everyone; not only the farmer but also the local teacher, and the doctor with nurse. It's incredible but such a small community (108 people) have a school with 3 kids still open and running, a local doctor with nurse and additional services available at 8km. In Cuba living in a small farmer village is not a problem as in most countries, services are available and people decide to stay instead that move over to the cities. This is certainly a good example for other countries.

About moving to the city, this is what we are just doing, going back to Havana. This time we are going to stay at the 4* Inglaterra, but expectation is low we have read reviews that said; "Nice lobby but sloppy room..". This is exactly what we get, but we are not worried it is just for one night and the location is great. After a bit of catch up and wondering around it is time for the group farewell dinner. The restaurant is slightly better than average but with live music (too loud) and dancers. In this case you are supposed to tip; waiter, band and dancers. I know that gratuities are very important for workers in tourism, but three tips for a dinner on top of the bill is ridiculous. We end the night in Plaza Vieja having a meter of locally brewed beer.

Day 13

Today is dedicated to learn more about the valley in which Viñales is located. Our guide brings us around the fields for 3 hours and we encounter a couple of very friendly farmers.

The first, Alfredo is barefoot cutting some wood to repair his drying barn. He is very willing to talk with us and he explains about all the crops that he's growing in his farm. There is a particular emphasis on Tobacco plants, which are the main crop in this area. Apparently the plant takes just 80 days to fully grow. And when is time to harvest (May) he has to store leafs into the drying barn where they will stay until the beginning of the rain season. At that point Alfredo stores everything away and waits for the state to pick them up. He seemed to be happy about his life and when asked if working as a farmer is tought he answer "No No que dices..".

The walk continues into other fields, in one of those we meet the second Tobacco farmer that is working the soil with his two oxen. The scene is fairly surreal, comparing to our high tech tractors this method is slow and hard, but a usual the farmer wasn't bother about walking under the sun shouting orders to thee big animals. John, one travel mate also gives it a go to this old traditional method.

During the final part of our route we went into a dark cave with bats to see the other side of the valley. The walk was interesting mostly to learn more about tobacco farming.

We spent the rest of the day with our "families" and resting. We had some rain in the afternoon that was more than welcome due to the extreme high humidity. Today we decided not to go out after lunch and stay in to talk with the whole family and children. A decision that we are happy of because is the last night in Viñales and talking to Cubans is the best way to spend an evening.

Day 12/2

It was time to start our shot trip to viñales, a touristy place were we are going to stay in 'casas particulares'. This is the main feature of this stop, so we are looking forward to be allocated with a nice family. We've been lucky and we've got a very nice private home owned by a young couple with two children a cat and a dog. The location is very central but with a lovely back garden facing the lovely mountains nearby. There are two porches, one in the from for resting and one in the back where our meals will be served.

When we arrived the children were coming back from school so we had the chance to meet the whole family.

After sorting out the luggage and been shown our room we decide to have a walk around. Viñales is clearly a city that attracts a number of tourists, but if I had two explain why I wouldn't be able. The place is not ugly, but is a fairly standard Cuban city developed around a main street with a Josè Martì square. I've got the impression that this so called touristic site are more decided by the government that invests and build some hotels than by some extraordinary features.

The 'Casa Particular' is a brilliant way to visit the country; people are very talkative, the standard of the room is high (for Cuba) and the food is much better than the one served in hotels.

Day 12

We are still in Soroa in the fancy hotel; today's plan is to walk up to the top of the hill to a nice viewpoint. This will be followed by the now common waterfall where as you as usual was give it a go to the cold water. I sincerely didn't mind the programme as after days and days of eating restaurant food three times a day I have the need to burn some calories. The walk up was rather thought, but the funny thing is that half the way and at the top there were a couple of guys selling fruit and souvenirs. The scenario from the top was stunning well worth the walk. Once back at street level it was time to approach the river, but just in from of us a long column of tourists heading to the same direction. Even if uninspired we went and the waterfalls were beautiful but the number of tourists spoiled the whole thing.

Before leaving for Pinar del Rio we had time for a swim in the pool and having a shower, very relaxing after the long morning.

After a short trip we got to this town, which as highlight had a pizzeria with a decent pizza. Everything else was not extremely pleasant, the busy road with a lot of car smoke, the majority of buildings where derelicts - including the local university. People seemed to be nice and not too used to tourism, guess why!