Monday, 17 December 2007

Day 11

Last night there was a little incident involving us returning to our room after tea and finding the security guard running away from the back door of our room. This is the first time that we became slightly concern about security. Today we reported the fact and we got apologies from a number of people including the guard that said that it was an unlucky situation as he was checking that our room's door was close (from the inside?). Anyway I'll dedicate a separate comment about security in Cuba.

Today the day is almost entirely dedicated to the visit of a community, Las Terrazas, that is also biosphere reserve. This small community of 1000 people spread into 25,000 square km is a nice example of how communities in remote areas can be promoted and supported. This lovely place has all sort of services; nursery/primary/secondary doctors with a small lab, pharmacy and operation room (for minor surgery). Additionally there a cinema and a theatre, all those are the perfect incentive for people to stay instead that leave for the city.

As part of our tour we visited an ex-coffee plantation (Buena Vista), all the schools, we've spoken with one of the doctors. As usual we posed a number of questions and the answers were very interesting. The community attracts attention and tourists tend to have a one day tour from Havana (just one hour away). To make this experience unforgivable we had lunch in the best restaurant so far; El Romero (The Rosemary). As described in our program this is a vegetarian place, a gourmet vegetarian restaurant. This is quite right the food was fabulous, tasty different and healthy. After weeks of either: pork, chicken or fish we all were craving for something different. The two chief well deserve an applause and a generous tip.

We had coffee in the nearby store (Cafe de Maria) where the serve locally produced coffee in a lovely terrace overlooking the town. The last activity for today was a wee walk in the reserve to get to another nice waterfall where tourists can try the cold water. I wasn't really in the mood of swimming in the river so instead we took some pictures and relaxed under the warm sun.

Today was a very interesting day and after all the above we were fairly tired to we just rest and had dinner and few drinks in the afternoon.

Day 10

The night was nice and cool outside, the bungalows are well distant one from the other and the night went on quite and comfy. Breakfast is enjoyable but not that brilliant. It's time to free our arms from the wrist band and travel toward a new destination. We are heading back to the motorway but before joining it we are driven further up into the Bay of Pig. We pass Playa Larga that was the second invasion spot, now that location has been transformed in another turistic resort. Close by these is a memorial to the 160 Cubans that died to defeat that attempt of intrusion in just 68 hours.

Time for lunch and we are brought to the biggest restaurant that I've seen so far. It isn't as ugly as the usual Russian concrete block, is massive but with a good balance between natural stone and wood. Even if it looks modern and elegant, the menu is even more limited that in the other places we've been so far. We are in the surroundings of Havana and we are heading to Soroa, in the west of the country. Once arrived, we visited the local orchid garden; this was an impressive garden example of the fertility of this region. For what I can see this mountainous region is extremely green and full of vegetation. Just next door our accommodation, an hotel with small bungalows and a central swimming pool everything in harmony with the nature. The restaurant doesn't vary from the usual, with the only exception that they stock very expensive Spanish wine.

Wednesday, 12 December 2007

Day 9

It's time for us to leave Trinidad after three gorgeous days. As usual we salute the people at our best accommodation so far. We are now heading to Playa Giron with planned stop at Cienfuegos. The latter is a well proportionate town with the main square dedicated to a local hero (Josè Martì). Worth to mention are the local theatre, cathedral and the local council building. There is also a commercial street busy with shops for Cuban with hard currency.

After an hour was time to get back to the bus and to entertain us for the second part of the transfer, we watched 'El Comandante' by Oliver Stone. Maybe some of you have already seen this 2002 documentary; I can assure that in this situation it has an improved meaning.

Just when the not too impressive documentary finished we arrive in Playa Giron.

We arrived into this thing that at the beginning seemed to be a huge car park. After further investigations it turned out to be a holiday resort. The only problem being that this was the sort of place that we tried to avoid. It has to be said that this was our accommodation only for 20hr or so, and that the location is historically important. Playa Giròn is one of the two landing spots during the Day of Pig's invasion. In fact just next door there is an interesting museum on this event.

Once checked-in we are all tagged with a blue wrist-band. So it was very much an all inclusive day, with open bar and restaurant.

The experience went ok, in the end we enjoyed a lunch slightly different from usual, a swim in the bay and some drinks before dinner. The rooms were rather basic though, the accommodation in Trinidad remains our favorite.

Saturday, 8 December 2007

Day 8

According to the programme today is ment to be a ay off with an optional activity. The activity in question is a nice walk in the Topes de Collantes with swin into the river/waterfalls. As we are still staying in the beautiful guest house in Trinidad I thought that someone would have been put off by the walk, but I was wrong 100 percent attendance! As usual the weather was brilliant only some useful cloud to provide a bit of shade. The walk starts just 15min by bus from outside town centre. Once crossed the characteristic bridge we enjoyed a nice walk that was sort of challenging for the first bit an then it went on following a flat path. The final reward for the 45min walk was a wonderful place, a natural waterfall. Just underneath the waterfall the river was wider and deeper, this allows to dive and swim into the cried crystal clear water. After the long walk a cold bath was the best thing. Few of us decided to jump, in a style that would not make the olympic games. There was also the waterfall that provided a free Jacuzzi and a little further a cave with some bats.

On our way back we stop by a typical farmers house, the place was very much from the past but incredibly well kept - simple but welcoming.

Day 7

Today is another full day of events for the group. As usual early start with a nice breakfast at 8 and shortly after weare lon our way to the local school od art. This holiday isnot only about Fair Trade and farmers, but also about seeing with your own eye how this works in Cuba. The school was a very nice sight to visit, its a boarding school with 100 students. The head master shows us around explaining us how the request for places is always very high. They also have two foreign student. The facility are well kept even and ok in the painting/drawing/pottery/printing side but the digital photography is a capital intense business and even if they have internet in the school, there are only 6 computers available to the one hundred students.

There is also to say that they use to have a professional digital camera but it felt off the hands of a student and now they have none. Art schools are a very expensive to run, but as all education in Cuba this school is free.

We left a lot of gift to this school, I think that interest for art is always a noble thing.

As usual we were late for the next visit as our group always asks a lot of questions. Our next stop is at the local maternity ward, a unique structure where pregnant women with any sort of complication are referred to by their family doctor. The place is located just in the town centre and they have 30 bed for patients, as usual we begin our session with three main figures working in this place; administrator, doctor and chief nursery.

We decided tonight to leave behibd the group and we enjoyed a night out for two. The restaurant was rather nice and central and then we went to "La Casa De La Trova" to enjoy some live music.

Day 6

It's time to leave the Anap guesthouse and I have to say that they where really caring with us. Always helpful and really nice.

We need to proceed with our trip in direction of the rising sun. In this way we would be able to get to Trinidad. Before reaching our destination we stopped twice the first time in Sancti Spiritus a nice little town very lively and full of activities including stores in convertible pesos, something that I haven't seen before. There is also a little library where we bought three nice books for the equivalent of 2 pounds, as usual educational goods are dead cheap. The second stop was slighty different, is was a nice tower called Torre de Maneca Iznaga where from the top you can have a fantastic view of the surroundings. Nothing bad with it, the problem is that all local seems to want to sell you something, a selling technique more aggressive that anywhere else. The view from the tower was very impressive indeed as much as the prices of the only restaurant available.

The last part of the trip to reach was fairly short, just 45min and here we were. A very lovely town that everyone seem to be in love of. The reason is simple, even if there a number of tourists around the place did not loose it originality. The guesthouse it's of an higher standard then the previous and there's no ruster to be seen :-) this time after few hours free wondering around town we had tea in an original paladar, private home good food prepared by the owner and family. Music is everywhere in Trinidad and if you are out and about in the evening hours both the Casa de la Musica and Casa de la Trova are place to enjoy some live performances.

Day 5/2

The second part of the day was devoded to visit the CCS Josè Martì. The difference between this coop and the previous one is that in this case there a number of indipendent (private) farmers that put their produce together to get a better deal. This time the meeting was different from the previous ones; instead that around a table the speaker was standing on a little stage. Also sometimes the members of this coop where contradicting one the other and this did not help the work of the translator Jesus. After this sort of strange meeting we were offered a coffee and invited to visit a member of the cooperative just few jards away.

The latter was a pleasant surprise, the farmer was very welcoming and entertaining, after visiting the finca (farm) we were invited to a little party with in order drinks food and music. A very wonderful experience that well worth the long travel. This was as explained by our guide the highlight of the FT tour, but the tour is certainly not over yet there are 10 days of travelling and visiting still to go.

Day 5/1

After a short trip to the surrounding area of Ciego de Avila we reach the first cooperative, the CPA Josè Martì. It's a bit remote but not too far away from the main road. We are welcome by representatives of the coop, all very knowledgeable and willing to dicuss with us FT issues. To summarise they are really enjoying the benefits of FT, even if the price they get for their produce (oranges and graipefruit) has always been fair, the premium paid by FT allowed them to build a number of infrastructures like workshop for lorries and plant nurseries as well as a new canteen for workers. We had also the impression that finding worker for them isn't an issue now as the benefit of FT are well known in the area.

We enjoyed their hospitality as well as an abundant lunch in the new canteen. It was probably they highlight of the tour so far, people where very nice and involved in the farming activity. As a last note even if we were supposed to help them, we did't have the chance because they haven't started picking up the fruits yet.

Day 5

The ruster start singing, It's the first time in my life that I've ever been waken up in this traditional way ..... It a very relaxing sensation, being back in time Ohhhh

When I check the clock the relax disappeared; it's two in the morning! I check outside and it's still dark; what's wrong with birds in Cuba was it Jet lagged too. The ruster went on for quite a while and managed to wake up everyone in the Guesthouse. As a result at breakfast we all look rather tired.

Today is an important day, we're going to visit the two fair trade farmers.

Day 4

Early breakfast today as we're leaving Havana to go to Ciego de Avila. The trip will take most of the da and we'll stop over only at Santa Clara to see the Che's memorial. Waiking up early is not an issue, as the jet lag is still having effect on our sleeping pattern. At 7.30 we are on the road headin East, the condition of the infrastructure is not brilliant, but the motorway is not that bad up to Santa Clara. Only problem being that before getting to the town the belt that makes the air conditioning work brokw down. As a result we waited for the mechanic to rescue us, unbelievably it took him only 1hr in total to get there and fix the problem.

The Che Guevara Memorial is located similarly to the plaza de la revoluciòn in a big area, very spacious where the monument really is the key figure. As you can see from the picture the statue an words by Ernesto are impressive. What you can't is the real memorial, just underneath the statue (photos are forbidden). The latter is split in two parts the first contains the rests of El Che and all the other fighters that with him fought the revolution . The second part is dedicated to a wee museum with a variety of photos and objects owned by Ernesto. The visit was really worth stopping over.

Back on the road we've got to our next accomodation - ANAP Guesthouse. You maybe remind this acronim that it was mentioned on day 2 - organisation of little farmers. The accomodation re simple but fairly nice and the surrounding is very nice with animals and plants. In this place we found a new feature of Cuba, frogs they seem to be everywhere. They jump everywhere from your room to the window down into the garden! Something certainly new ....